The latter will be the topic of the day.
THE ORIGIN
Felice Giovine, historian of Apulian cuisine, dates the Assassina around the end of the Sixties, in the center of Bari, at the Al Sorso Preferito restaurant. However, contrary to popular belief, this is not a recovery dish, «like Sunday pasta, the one with meat sauce, sautéed in a pan and scorched. Because you don't eat spaghetti on Sundays in Puglia», explains Sandro Romano. Among the false legends there are those who attributed the paternity of the dish to the Marc'Aurelio restaurant, now closed. The truth is that when the owners of Al Sorso Favorite acquired the adjacent restaurant – a former rotisserie – they found the recipe for the Assassina on the menu and decided to propose it again.
THE ASSASSIN ACADEMY
In Bari, spaghetti all'assassina is a real religion, so much so that it has a dedicated academy. Academy made up of lovers and experts of this dish who are committed to enhancing it through monthly meetings that revolve around sharing and conviviality. They are staunch defenders of the use of the black iron pan, an indispensable utensil for the preparation of the Assassina according to tradition and the Academy. It is an oiled, burnt and never washed pan. Newspaper was used to clean it, so that it didn't lose all the fat. The president of the Accademia dell'Assassina, Massimo Dell'Erba, advocates the use of the iron pan because it conducts heat better than normal ones. What about the safety regulations in force, which would prohibit this object? Given that, for a domestic assassin, Romano explains that «a non-stick frying pan is also fine», Dell'Erba points out: «Iron frying pans purchased at the market are illegal because they can release oxides or other substances. Then there are professional iron pans (the so-called lyonnaise) which are perfectly usable in catering».
THE ORIGINAL RECIPE
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE:
- 320 grams of vermicelli or spaghetti
- 400 grams of tomato puree
- tomato concentrate
- oil
- garlic
- sugar
Prepare and bring to the boil a broth made with water, 300 grams of tomato puree and plenty of tomato paste and salt. The sauce «must be bright red and tasty, but it must always be broth», write the academics. In the iron pan that has already been treated for use, put 100 ml of oil, three cloves of garlic deprived of the core and chili pepper to taste, known in Bari as diavuìcchje. Dell'Erba suggests two whole and one slightly chopped. Brown the garlic over high heat, then pour a glass or less of tomato puree (100 grams). "It will splash everywhere, that's fine, but the killer is worth the cause," adds the expert. To correct the acidity of the tomato, a teaspoon of sugar is allowed. Distribute the sauce over the whole pan with a wooden spoon and let it consume slightly. At this point, put raw spaghetti in the pan, distributing them in such a way that the pasta is in contact with the sauce. «Here the detachment and coldness of the chef begin to be necessary», explains Dell'Erba. «You shouldn't be in a hurry to turn over, you have to wait for some spaghetti to start their browning process, without charring, but caramelizing».With skill and mastery he turns the spaghetti which begins to stick a little to the bottom of the pan, bringing up the already browned ones. At this point, pour two medium-sized ladles of this soupy tomato sauce into the pan. The liquid will sizzle and begin to simmer. Let it consume, without turning the spaghetti and "listen" for cooking to start. When you hear "sizzling" again (the noise changes sharply), you need to stay "cold" and let the "burning" process continue for a few tens of seconds. Repeat the operation to bring up the most burnt spaghetti, adding more tomato liquid. Each addition must correspond to the time needed to make the preparation sizzle and then repeat by wetting the pasta with the sauce. The spaghetti that was stiff will begin to bend. The whole process will take about 8-9 minutes. Here's because it is said that the Assassin "must suffer".
In the end you will discover that spaghetti is more calloused and inviting under the teeth, with a very different consistency compared to boiled one. But only the scorched ones must "crunch". The degree of cooking and burnt so you decide. «You must have an eye and taste», explains the president of the Academy «When you have decided that in your opinion the Assassina is ready, then serve directly by bringing the pan to the table. Remember: spaghetti all'assassina is a theory, not a simple dish. It appears disarmingly simple, but needs attention, care and detachment». When Joe Bastianich tasted this dish, prepared by the Bari-based chef Almo Bibolotti, who was competing for access to the All Stars section, he defined it as an "extraterrestrial" dish. If you're not sure how to make it yourself, there are also workshops dedicated to spaghetti all'assassina. Massimo Dell'Erba also holds Assassina lessons in the workshops organized in Bari by Cime di Web.
